Walking the Kumano Kodo: 16 days
Japan's other pilgrimage. Less known than the Camino, harder to organise independently, and quieter for it. Four walking days on the Nakahechi route, temple lodging on Koyasan, hot springs at the end of every walking day and luggage moved ahead so you carry a daypack.
- Duration
- 16 days
- Pace
- Active
- Hotel changes
- 8
- Best months
- Apr, May, Oct, Nov
- From
- $5,200 per person
Who it suits: walkers comfortable with 5 to 9 miles a day on hilly ground. No technical difficulty, but the ascents are real.
Day by day
Day 1: Arrive Tokyo. Transfer, rest.
Day 2: Tokyo. A guided day through the older east side, and an afternoon free.
Day 3: Tokyo. Free day. Kamakura’s coastal walk is the natural warm-up if you want one.
Day 4: Tokyo to Kyoto. Shinkansen, afternoon in eastern Kyoto.
Day 5: Kyoto. Arashiyama early, then the Philosopher’s Path and a temple garden or two.
Day 6: Kyoto to Koyasan. Train and cable car up the mountain. Afternoon in the Okunoin cemetery among 200,000 graves and cedar trees. Overnight in a temple, vegetarian shojin ryori dinner.
Day 7: Koyasan to Takahara. Morning prayers at 6am, optional but worth it. Transfer to the trailhead and a short first walk to Takahara, about 3 miles, ridge views over the valley.
Day 8: Takahara to Chikatsuyu. About 6 miles through forest and small shrines. Minshuku guesthouse, family-run, dinner included.
Day 9: Chikatsuyu to Hongu. The longest day, about 9 miles with a real climb. Arrival at Kumano Hongu Taisha, the spiritual centre of the route. Night at Yunomine Onsen, a hot spring village in use for 1,800 years.
Day 10: Hongu to Nachi. River boat down the Kumano-gawa, then the final walk up the Daimon-zaka stone steps to Nachi Taisha and Japan’s tallest waterfall.
Day 11: Nachi to Osaka. Coastal train north. Evening in Osaka.
Day 12: Osaka. A rest day that you will want. Food, markets, nothing strenuous.
Day 13: Osaka to Kanazawa. Rail north. Afternoon in the Higashi Chaya district and the Kenroku-en garden.
Day 14: Kanazawa. The 21st Century Museum, the market, a craft workshop: gold leaf or lacquer.
Day 15: Kanazawa to Tokyo. Shinkansen east. Last night in Tokyo.
Day 16: Departure.
What is included
All accommodation including two nights of temple lodging and traditional guesthouses on the trail, all meals on the walking days, luggage transfers along the route, trail permits and the pilgrim stamp book, all rail, a walking guide for days 8 and 9, and 24-hour support from our Tokyo office.
Honest notes
The trail is well signed but the accommodation on it is simple, Japanese-style futons on tatami and shared bathrooms in some places. That is the experience, not a compromise. Rain is common in spring and autumn. We provide a wet-weather plan and the bus alternatives for each section.
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